Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
4 years ago
Italian Pair Complete First Winter Linkage of Matterhorn and Grandes Murailles
This article first appeared on http://www.planetmountain.com. The original can be read here.
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
Photo by Daniele Molineris / Storyteller-Labs
After a failed attempt in 2017 and another in 2018, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have now completed their humungous winter project: the enchainment of all the peaks on the never-ending the ridge that joins some of the main massifs in Valtournenche: the Furggen chain, the Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles. The two Italian mountain guides set off on Monday 20 January from the Theodulo hut (3,317m) at Colle del Theodulo and dropped back down into valley, via the Château des Dames gully, on Thursday 23 January at 13.00.
"It is certainly a dream come true for both of us" Ratti told planetmountain.com "these are the backyard mountains for both of us. In 1985 François' father competed the first winter traverse of the Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles with Marco Barmasse. While the Ratti bivouac on Grandes Murailles was built by my father. Our roots are in these mountains, and ever since we’ve known each other we’ve wanted to complete this ridge traverse in winter. The thing is though that over the years we began to realise that a winter enchainment isn’t a foregone conclusion, on the contrary. To get all the way to the end, you need to be good."
Onday 1 Cazzanelli and Ratti linked the Furggen chain vie its four main peaks, Corno del Theodulo (3,469m), Cima del Breuil (3,462m), Furggen (3,492m) and Cima della Forca (3,349m), followed by the Matterhorn (4,478m) via the Piacenza route and a night spent in the Carrel hut (3,830 m).
On day 2 the mountaineers from Cervinia ascended from the Carrel hut to the Perelli bivouac (3,831m), linking a first part of Grandes Murailles on a day marked by high winds. Cazzanelli and Ratti then ascended: Punta Maria Cristina (3,708m), Punta Maquignaz (3,841m), Punta Carrel (3,841m) and Punta Bianca (3,918m) before resting at the Perelli bivouac.
Matterhorn/Grandes Murailles winter enchainment. Photo: Daniele Molineris/Storyteller-Labs
On day 3 the duo continued along Grandes Murailles, tagging the following peaks: Punta Lioy (3,816m), I due Jumaux (3,872m), Becca di Guin (3,805m) and Punta Budden (3,603m). They enjoyed perfect conditions throughout the day before settling in at the Paolouccio bivouac.
On the last day, Cazzanelli and Ratti crossed Petites Murailles from the Paoluccio bivouac to Colle des Dames (3,488m), then continued via Tour du Creton (3,579m), Mont Blanc du Creton (3,406m) and Chateau des Dames (3,488m). They descended down Vallone di Vofrède at Château des Dames and returned to Cervinia on foot.
"This Himalayan style ridge is visible from the Breuil basin, where it fascinates and amazes the thousands of people who visit Cervinia every year" explained Cazzanelli "It’s comprised of 20 peaks: the highest is the Matterhorn at 4478 meters in height, while the lowest is is Mont Blanc du Créton at 3406m. Because of its proportion, altitude and exposed sections, this ridge is certainly one of the most spectacular and beautiful in the Alps. Just think, the Grandes Murailles to Petites Murailles traverse is an approximately 16 km uninterrupted ridge line."
Link: www.francoiscazzanelli.it, FB François Cazzanelli, FB Francesco Ratti, francescoratti.blogspot.com, Salewa, Millet Mountain, Garmin, Grivel
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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