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Daily Mountain

47 years, Australia

6 years ago

Japanese climbers complete a new route on Cerro Kishtwar's northeast face

Going light and fast during a short weather window, Japanese climbers Genki Narumi, Yusuke Sato and Hiroki Yamamoto squeaked in a new route on the northeast face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m) in India, between September 20-25. They named their route All Izz Well (VI WI5 M6, 1500m). 

Japanese climbers complete a new route on Cerro Kishtwar's northeast face
Sato jumaring before the upper headwall. Photo: Genki Narumi, Yusuke Sato and Hiroki Yamamoto collection
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Narumi told Alpinist that they ascended 1000 meters via an easy snow gully that was followed by a section of ice on Day 1.

He wrote in an email:

Then we went for a 500-meter summit push on Day 2 without a tent or sleeping bags because we knew the weather window would be almost closed. Day 2 started with a skinny ice pillar and then tricky mixed pitches that led to the upper wall, which consisted of rocks and thin ice and made for some serious pitches. We kept on going into the dark, then finally summited around 11 p.m. We immediately started rappelling, stopping after a while for a two-hour brew session. About 10 rappels brought us to the first camp around noon.

Japanese climbers complete a new route on Cerro Kishtwar's northeast face
The northeast face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m) with All Izz Well (VI WI5 M6, 1500m) marked in red with the team's first bivy site. Photo: Genki Narumi, Yusuke Sato and Hiroki Yamamoto collection

[At this point] snow started to fall and avalanches came down from everywhere on the wall. We kept on rappelling down for another 20 pitches in the terrible situation and finally found a safer place to sleep around midnight.

On Day 4 we made another three rappels and finally stood on the glacier, only to crawl through 60 inches of snow and find our advance base camp tent completely collapsed underneath [the accumulated snow]. 

We rebuilt our ABC tent and rested there but realized it wasn't safe enough—an avalanche blast shook the tent quite strongly, so we decided to move down in the night. Another swim in the snow took us almost four hours to move only 200 meters. But here we found small cave under the rock.

Japanese climbers complete a new route on Cerro Kishtwar's northeast face
The team on the summit. Photo: Genki Narumi, Yusuke Sato and Hiroki Yamamoto collection

On the next day we stayed [under the rock], enjoyed some sun and waited for the snow to [stabilize].

On Day 6 [Sept. 25] the sky finally cleared, the snow [firmed] up and we could walk back easily to the base camp.

Only Sato—an original member of the famous Giri Giri Boys—had been to India before, on an expedition to Kalanka (6931) about 10 years ago.

Narumi said they were inspired to go to Cerro Kishtwar after seeing a photo of the peak taken by Marko Prezelj, who climbed a new route on the mountain's east face with Hayden Kennedy, Urban Novak and Manu Pellissier in 2015. 

"[Prezelj] kindly gave us images and also beta to the area. That motivated us a lot," Narumi said.

Last year Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Huber and Julian Zanker completed a steep aid line up the middle of Cerro Kishtwar's northwest face.

This article first appeared on http://www.alpinist.com. The original can be read here.

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Sherpas fix rope upto Camp III on Mt Manaslu
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Big New Dolomites Winter Climb
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Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu in one season
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Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber Climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
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Indigenous Bolivian Women Summit Aconcagua
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Alex Honnold scales exterior of N.J.'s tallest apartment tower
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Team of blind climbers summit Mt Kilimanjaro
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Blind British Climber Summits Europe’s Highest Mountain
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273 Irish Mountains in Two Months
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Vanishingly Rare: Cory Richards, Esteban “Topo” Mena To Attempt New Everest Route
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Jason Momoa Talks about why he started climbing and why he wants to pass it on to his children
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Chinese Double Amputee Xia Wins Laureus Sporting Moment Of the Year
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Mummified body of Russian climber found after 31 years on Mount Elbrus
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374 world climbers including 12 Nepalis obtained climbing permits for Mt Everest
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Everest Climbing Permit: Expedition handling agency faces action for forgery
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Rock Stars: A Day of Climbing With 'Free Solo' Star Alex Honnold and Jared Leto
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Pou Brothers Put Up New Route in Patagonia
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Man Who Strangled Mountain Lion Makes First Public Appearance
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China Closes Everest Base Camp to Tourists Until Further Notice to Tackle Mountain of Rubbish
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Indian Woman Makes History With Her Climb Up Sacred Mountain
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‘Free Solo’ wins the Oscar for best documentary feature
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Mick Fowler and Vic Saunders revive Himalaya climb plans after cancer diagnosis
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Eight-time Everest Summiter Pemba Sherpa Goes Missing in the Karakoram
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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