Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Himalayan Spring Roundup: Everest, Annapurna, Jannu
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
While winter in the Karakorum ended, with the retreat of Alex Txikon and his team to Base Camp on K2, spring in the Himalaya has officially begun.
Typically, the first sign of spring is not a robin or the equinox itself, but the puja ceremony to please the mountain gods before the Icefall Doctors begin their work at the base of Mount Everest. Eight Sherpas performed that ritual, and the pre-monsoon climbing season in Nepal’s Himalaya is underway.
Everest's mightly north face will attract attention this season, when Cory Richards and Topo Mena attempt a new line. Image by Wikimedia commons
Commercial expeditions will soon flock to the mountain on both the north and south sides. Troops of porters and Base Camp staff have begun to prep the canvas villages for their clients, some inexperienced, some not, all well-heeled. A guided climb costs $25,000 to $75,000.
Following the trend of recent seasons, a number of Everest-Lhotse double-headers are planned, plus the odd record attempt, including the remarkable quest of Nirmal Purja Magar. The ex-Gurkha soldier aims to complete all 14 8000’ers in just seven months. His plan, which he dubs Project Possible, targets all Nepal’s 8,000m peaks in spring, the Pakistani ones in summer and the three remaining peaks, all in Tibet, during the fall post-monsoon. Style is secondary: Magar will use all available resources in the name of speed.
Everest Base Camp will soon hum with activity. Photo: Ryan Waters/mtnprofessionals.com
However, Everest’s north side could garner most of the eyeballs, for two reasons: First, the partial closures announced by China for its intensive cleaning program may, while necessary, affect the climbing teams. Second, because Cory Richards and Esteban “Topo” Mena are attempting a (slightly) new route up the peak’s North Face, in light style and with no supplementary oxygen.
Beyond Everest, Adam Bielecki is again taking on the ever-dangerous Annapurna. He leaves for Kathmandu on April 7. More details to come.
One of the most interesting projects of the season has already started. Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko of Russia and Marcin Tomaszewski of Poland left for the rarely attempted and even more rarely summited 7,710m Mount Jannu (aka Kumbakarna). This breathtaking peak rises in the Kangchenjunga region and features a sheer, unclimbed South East Face: the goal of the bold expedition. It was attempted just once, 10 years ago.
Climbers approaching Jannu’s SE face. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski
Jannu is also located in the wildest part of the Himalaya, and even reaching Base Camp proved difficult: hard trekking, few or no porters, isolation — meaning, heavier packs. Previous plans to acclimatize in nearby mountains didn’t work out, and even the prep work will have to take place on Jannu.
Early conditions were so dangerous that Marcin Tomaszewski has already decided to pack it in. “Research back in Poland did not bear much resemblance to what we were seeing in real life,” Tomaszewski explained to ExWeb’s Ash Routen. “We would be forced to wind our way between overhanging seracs and other dangerous snow features.”
The two Russians are still at it, however, together with filmmaker Eliza Kubarska.
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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