Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Karakorum 2019: K2, the Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat
As monsoon season settles into the Himalaya, it’s time to turn slightly further east, to the Karakorum. Here, porters and climbers are already approaching the base of Pakistan’s five 8000’ers. A number of climbing stars and innovative teams will share these peaks with ever more numerous commercial expeditions. This year we will also meet some familiar faces from spring, continuing their multiple 8,000m lists.
Lazo and Ugovnik have already reached Camp 1 on Nanga Parbat. Photo: Cala Cimenti
The Collectors
Fully recovered from a pulmonary infection and a cracked rib after a no-O2 Lhotse ascent, Sergi Mingote aims to summit both Gasherbrums as part of his project to climb six 8000’ers within a year. His July deadline marks exactly 365 days since he succeeded on Broad Peak.
Meanwhile, the incredible Nirmal (Nims) Purba — who is trying to do all 14 8000’ers in seven months — has had to postpone Pakistan because of lack of funds. In spring, this formidable record seeker climbed Annapurna, flew to Kangchenjunga and topped that, then summited Everest and Lhotse back to back. Finally, after a quick helicopter transfer, he still had time to run up Makalu.
Sergi Mingote and Italian Mattia Conte en route to Islamabad. Next on Mingote’s list: Gasherbrum I and II
He had planned to bag the Karakorum Crown — Pakistan’s five 8000’ers — in the fastest time ever. But he admits that he has had to push back his start by four weeks, which makes it unlikely that even he will have time for all five. Nevertheless, he continues to be optimistic that he will complete the project somehow by October.
The Skiers
Summit climbs followed by ski descents were sorely missed in Nepal this past spring, but Russians Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin are already climbing Nanga Parbat and intend to ski completely down the steep Diamir face. The pair climbed and skied Manaslu two years ago and attempted Annapurna last year, although bad conditions thwarted them.
The Nanga Parbat skiers. From left to right, Cala Cimenti, Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin. Photo: Cala Cimenti
Skier and filmmaker Cala Cimenti of Italy will join them to film a documentary on their expedition. According to Cimenti, the three managed two trips to Camp 1 before bad weather arrived yesterday. Meanwhile, a French and a Georgian expedition have also reached Base Camp. Nanga Parbat is actually slightly south of the Karakorum, but its extreme western location means that the monsoon reaches it later.
The Trailblazers
Lots of novelty still awaits climbers in Pakistan: virgin rocky spires, unclimbed 6,000 and 7,000m peaks or new routes on its five mighty 8000’ers. Even permit fees are reasonable here. Among those eyeing new territory are Denis Urubko and María José Cardell. Over the last couple of years, the couple have combined rock climbing (her specialty) and high altitude (Urubko’s) in Patagonia, the Tien Shan and the Caucasus. A new route on Gasherbrum II marks their first 8,000m joint venture. The couple will acclimatize on the normal route, then will launch an alpine-style push on this new line.
Denis Urubko and María José Cardell, on holiday before leaving for Gasherbrum II. Photo: RussianClimb
The Adventurers
Some say that K2 is not as savage a mountain as it used to be. This summer, high altitude porters and guides will fix the Abruzzi Spur route for clients on several commercial expeditions. Nevertheless, K2 remains a remarkable goal, especially without supplemental O2. Multi-adventurer Mike Horn is attempting this peak for the third time, together with Fred Roux. They left Skardu last weekend.
Fred Roux (left) and Mike Horn checking loads in Skardu. Photo: Mike Horn
The New Generations
Simon Messner, son of superstar Reinhold, is also heading to Pakistan, although his plans remain veiled for now and refer only to a “project” around Muztagh Tower.
Muztagh Tower, 7,276m. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
The Instagrammers
While virtually all climbers keep a profile on social media, some make an art of it. A search of #NangaParbat on Twitter and Instagram shows a large number of entries by an otherwise unknown Stefi Troguet. A resident of tiny Andorra, the 25-year-old poses with perfect looks and makeup (and six-pack abs). Her Twitter page introduces her as a “normal girl…chasing summits with red lipstick.” According to her posts, she is already on the way to Nanga Parbat Base Camp and will be guided up her first 8,000m peak by Ali Sadpara, himself fresh from Lhotse and Makalu.
Stefi Troquet poses at Skardu, shortly before leaving for Nanga Parbat. Photo: Stefi Troquet
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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