Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Who is Really Going for Winter K2 This Season?
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Two months ago, it seemed that K2 would be busier than ever this winter. But the main players still hesitate for a variety of reasons.
K2 at dawn. Photo: MingmaG
Imagine Nepal’s Mingma G (complete name Mingma Gyalje Sherpa) still wants to attempt the Abruzzi Spur, without supplementary O2. But his expedition needs to raise money, and Mingma is frantically fundraising. “We need to wait some more weeks, but we are not cancelling [yet] because of lack of funds,” said Mingma. At 33 years old, the Sherpa has previously summited K2 in 2014 and 2017.
Many pinned their hopes on Denis Urubko. If anyone was a good bet to summit the last unclimbed winter 8,000’er, it would be he. However, Urubko has warned that his main and first winter goal is Broad Peak. Although he also has a permit for K2, he cautions that a possible attempt depends on a number of “ifs”: if there’s time before the first of March, if conditions are right, etc.
Meanwhile, a French team has appeared out of the blue — or, rather, out of the Pyrenees range, on the border between France and Spain. They announced their surprise plans for winter K2 from Islamabad, where they landed on November 29. The Saura-K2-Bordes expedition members are Jonathan Bordes (42) and Vincent Saura (25). Both claim to have climbed a number of routes in the Alps and the Pyrenees (where the highest point is humble Aneto peak at 3,404m) but they have no experience in the greater ranges. In an interview with La Dépêche du Midi, the brazen duo insisted that they were serious contenders, despite the collective mountaineering world’s raised eyebrows.
Their expedition’s website is unconventional as well. Several pages remain under construction. One photo shows the pair and their equipment in a cavernous empty warehouse. Alpine Adventure Pakistan Guides reports that the team has received just a trekking permit, which allows them no further than Base Camp.
According to Adventure Pakistan’s Ali, only one permit has been issued for K2 so far, to Urubko and Bowie. Moro and Lunger also have a permit for Gasherbrums I and II. Currently, those are the only two confirmed teams in the winter Karakorum.
In the last few hours, word from Pakistan came that the pair are detained in Skardu, after an official deemed their equipment too much for a mere trek. Also, they had been bragging to everyone that they had come to climb K2. Not exactly a discreet approach if you want to pirate a mountain.
Bielecki and Batura Sar
The most exciting expedition in the Karakorum this winter could be the one targeting a (slightly) lesser peak. Adam Bielecki and the Polish climbers who are preparing for winter K2 next year are heading for Batura Sar (7,794m). The team also includes hard-core winter climber Rafal Fronia. They land in Pakistan on January 15, then head to the remote Batura Muztagh range, west of the Hunza River. Batura features an impressive face and a 10km-long ridge. A German team first summited it in 1976, but no one has ever climbed Batura Sar in winter.
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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