Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Txikon, Russians Gear Up for Winter K2
This article first appeared on Explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Winter K2 has been attempted four times by Polish and Russian climbers. None of them has reached beyond 7,600m of its 8,611m. A Russian/Kazakh/Kyrgyz combo is currently struggling to raise the money to have a go at this last great Himalayan prize. But they will not be lonely at K2’s barren Base Camp: Alex Txikon of Spain will lead a small team that includes Felix Criado (who partnered with Txikon on a previous summer K2 attempt) and five climbing Sherpas who were on winter Everest earlier this year.
Basque Alex Txikon presented his upcoming winter K2 expedition at home in Spain last week. Photo credit: Alex Txikon expedition team
The Spaniards set off on January 2 and will trek to BC from Skardu. Although conditions will decide which route to follow, both Txikon’s and Artem Braun’s expeditions are apparently bound to the normal route, the Abruzzi Spur. As a strategic novelty, Txikon claims that their upper camps will be snow shelters instead of tents. A cameraman and drone pilot, plus researchers studying green energy alternatives and weather, comprise a large BC crew.
The roubles problem
The Russians are determined to proceed despite a lack of funding. Without sponsorship from home, they have created a crowdfunding campaign that they hope will raise enough for gear and clothes. Nevertheless, the expedition, organized by Braun and led by 14×8000 summiteer Vassily Pivtsov, will go ahead in any case. A large load of gear already sits under orange tarps at Base Camp, and the 11 climbers have received their permits. Expedition member Dmitry Muraviov, who summited Manaslu in 1995 in winter conditions (December 8), says that they have real chances to succeed.
A first load of gear for Artem Braun’s International Winter K2 expedition sits at Base Camp. The team arrives in early January, 2019
Meanwhile, the Polish team that plans to tackle Winter K2 in 2019-20 watches carefully. Leader Piotr Tomala explains that his team of mainly young mountaineers will do three training climbs this winter. Hopes are high to enlist local star Adam Bielecki for K2 itself. Currently, they are not planning to “reinforce the team with foreign climbers”. No word on whether the expedition will proceed if Txikon or the Russian-Kazakh-Kyrgyz group triumphs this year, however.
In addition to K2, Italy’s Daniele Nardi and the UK’s Tom Ballard have obtained a climbing permit for winter Nanga Parbat. No further details on their project have yet been released.
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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