An international mountain guide has successfully climbed the world’s 13th highest mountain in the Karakoram Range last week, becoming the first Nepali climber to make the most ascents of 8,000-metre peaks without using supplemental oxygen.
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa on Gasherbrum II summit on July 25, 2019
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa from Rolwaling Valley in Dolakha district stood atop Gasherbrum II (8,035m) on July 25. “This is the 12th eight-thousander that I have climbed without using supplemental oxygen,” Sherpa, who also runs Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition, told this daily from Skardu in Pakistan. “At least nine members of our team made it to the summit of Gasherbrum II this season,” Sherpa, who soloed on Mt Chobuje (6,685m) via west face in 2015, added.
According to him, climbers including Vernon Edward Tejas, Naoki Ishikhawa, Hari Thomas Mix, Tamting Sherpa, Thundu Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Kami Temba Sherpa and Passang Namgel Sherpa also made it to summit of Gasherbrum II.
Sherpa, who completed 13 of 14 mountains above 8,000m, said that he aims to become the first Nepali mountaineer to climb all eight-thousanders without the aid of supplemental oxygen.
“I have a plan to complete remaining two mountains – Mt Everest and Mt Shishapangma – without using supplemental oxygen by next year,” Sherpa, an IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide, shared. Sherpa, however, climbed Mt Everest for the fifth time – 2007, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2016 – but he had used bottled oxygen while standing atop the world’s highest peak.
The two-time K2 summiteer also said that he would also attempt to complete all the Seven Summits, the highest peaks of each of the world’s continents next year. Sherpa is also the first summiteer on Mt Cheki-Go (6,257m), Mt Bamongo (6,400m) and Mt Chobuje (6,685m) via west.
MINGMA GYALJE’S SUMMIT RECORD:
Mt Everest – 2007, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2016
K2 – 2014 and 2017
Kanchenjunga – 2013
Lhotse – 2018
Makalu – 2017
Cho Oyu – 2008
Dhaulagiri – 2017
Manaslu – 2009, 2011, 2016 and 2018
Nanga Parbat – 2017
Annapurna – 2015
Gasherbrum I – 2016
Broad Peak – 2018
Gasherbrum II – 2019
by RAJAN POKHREL
This article first appeared on http://thehimalayantimes.com. The original can be read here.